Oh, I love a good reveal! Try doing this with scrap material first to get a feel for the process. Just be sure to use the same type of caulk as you used for the main job! Without changing the spread of the compass's legs, hold the pencil on the baseboard and the point against the floor. It will most likely be attached to a stud. The only exception is where the floor meets the base. This being said, there are things you can do to improve your already very good chances of finishing your caulking job unscathed. If you don't feel any resistance when using the piercing rod, you'll know this is the case.
Baseboards are not my fave remodel project! It is a lot easier to paint standing up rather than standing on your head. I always add a little more just in case I mess up on the miter cut. Opinions definitely vary on whether to paint walls or baseboards first. As always, all opinions are 100% mine. If inexperienced with a caulk gun, practice first.
To do this, you'll want to scribe them. This also gives the benefit of making clean-up very quick and easy. When using a cap molding, place it on the base to see if the back of the molding fits snugly against the wall. I am holding a camera at the same time so you forgive me, right? Would you like to answer one of these instead? Black baseboards can be a cool look though depending on the style of the house. Baseboards were often three-piece affairs consisting of a flat plank, a decorative cap molding, and a rounded shoe molding to cover gaps along the floor. Then measure the amount of excess that is sticking out.
Easy to spread out as well, I just used my finger to smooth over the gap and after a little paint you can't even tell it's there. The shorter pieces are less expensive, but harder to work with; buy pieces that can be installed with as few joints as possible. Click here to see a video on how to install the base molding. Use a nail set to sink any nails slightly below the face of the trim. Molding is sold in pieces 3 to 20 feet long. Removing material from the back side of the molding allows it to fit closely around the outside edges and promotes better adhesion. Nail the baseboards in place with finishing nails.
Then dry-fit the baseboard back onto the floor and make sure it lines up evenly with the chalk line on your wall. For reinstallation, a finish nail gun really makes the job go fast, and a nail set is also useful. Scrape or sand any excess nubby texture off to create a smooth surface. Removing the shortest piece first enables the end of the longer pieces to separate more freely and also gives you an idea of the nail spacing for the rest of the baseboards. If not, move the level across the floor to find its lowest point. Most of the time, the baseboard comes off with ease and you can cut it and refit it after the unit is in place. Not the answer you're looking for? Understand the costs associated with caulking.
I am so sorry for such a mess! Sand the chiseled edge to a smooth curve before nailing the molding into place. You are quite a lady. Let me know if you have any other questions. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! One nail per stud and two at the ends is usually enough for basic trim. Some damage can occur when they do this. If possible, buy the baseboards and bring them inside one week before installation to allow them to acclimate to their new environment. Keep the area free of obstructions.
When doing floors, the tape along the floor is crucial to getting a straight line, because you won't be able to paint to hide any mistakes. The end of the molding is either cut on a 45 degree angle or a straight cut. In fact, Donnie recently confessed that he used to watch me paint and laugh because I was so terrible at it. Silicone caulk's toughness makes it great for situations in which it is exposed to widely-ranging temperatures, harsh weather conditions, and heavy wear. Buy paint-primed baseboard if possible, as this will save you a step at installation. But when an exact replica is needed, he'll have custom molding milled up.
Keep the tip of the blade up and off the floor a couple of inches before turning it on. I smoothed it out in one long piece from one end of the wall to the other before I started caulking. To and install new ones, learning how to measure and which cuts to make, read the following instructions. Cut the tip off the end of the adhesive tube with a utility knife, pierce the tube's inner seal with a stiff piece of wire and attach the adhesive spreading nozzle to the end of the tube. Loosen the molding gradually, working along its entire length so that the entire piece of molding comes loose at the same rate; leave the nails in the molding.